Hiking in Huaraz

In the northern highlands of Peru, sandwiched between the jungle and the coast, lies Huaraz and the mighty Cordillera Blanca-- the highest mountain range in the world outside of the Himalayas. A devastating earthquake here in 1970 unleashed an avalanche wiping out the entire village of Yungay; today, the rebuilt Yungay is a stopping point travelling to the Santa Cruz trailhead, the most popular trek in the region.

The first day of trekking is a pleasant one, with views of stunning turquoise lakes, steeply carved canyons, and verdant valleys. Even the houses here, with their terra cotta roofs, are more attractive than elsewhere in Peru. The terrain is mainly flat, since you´re already at a considerable altitude when you start hiking, and burros are burdened with most of the weight-- the tents, the food, water, cooking supplies. Even the weather wants to cooperate.

The second day is more difficult, but infinitely more rewarding. Starting at breakfast at about 12,000 feet, you climb steadily until by lunchtime you reach the Punta Union pass at more than 15,000 feet. I was panting like a dog from the moment we started hiking-- the curse of being born at sea level. But Punta Union is special for two reasons: first, it is the continental divide. All water from here either flows to the Amazon where it will meet the Atlantic, or falls away the west and the Pacific. Second, the views from here are supposed to be some of the best in all the Andes. And quite honestly, this might be the most beautiful place I`ve ever seen; it is certainly the most impressive mountain range I`ve seen. The clouds drift in an out, providing everchanging views of the peaks; there is always another peak being exposed, a new sense of wonder being sparked. Descending into a seemingly never ending valley, even more mountains come into view. And although Alpomayo-- the perfect pyramid shaped mountain that Huaraz, if no one else, has deemed the world´s most beautiful-- remained mainly hidden, there is no sense of disappointment. If anything, it adds another reason to come back.

Day three is all down hill, and we have the first bit of rain for the trip. Reaching civilization we say our goodbyes and seek out a restaurant; as great as the mountains are for the mind and soul, the body craves a cheeseburger. And Huaraz obliges.